Over the years, Genoa has maintained uts defining features, it has one of the biggest old towns in Europe, ideal for exploring on warm autumn days. With over a 100 Renaissance and baroque palaces still standing, 42 of which comprise the Unesco-listed Palazzi del Rolli. Lots are open to the public. 

One palace in particular, Palazzo Ducale was built in 1298, became the home of the Doge in 1339 and is now Genoa’s main cultural centre, with must-see exhibitions, such as this spring’s retrospective of Artemisia Gentileschi, the pioneering 17th-century female painter; next up is impressionist Berthe Morisot (11 Oct-23 Feb 2025).

Palazzo Rosso, with 17th-century frescoes and an art collection including seven Van Dyks; Palazzo Spinola, which now houses the National Gallery of Liguria; and Palazzo Reale, with its sea-view terrace and a hall of mirrors.

As well as all the grand architecture, another of Genoa’s charms is that it is still a busy port city, with alleyways to wander and more local people than tourists. De Micheli in the old town has been selling artisan food, such as torta pasqualina (pie filled with chard or spinach, egg and ricotta), since 1900; Da Mario round the corner makes top-quality pasta and pesto to go; Panificio Claretta does great focaccia; and Pasticceria Profumo, close to all the palaces on Via Garibaldi, makes Ligurian cakes and pastries.

Genoa has a beautiful blend of smart Michelin-starred restaurants and a host of smaller spots. Bars range from aperitivo along the waterfront to palatial cocktail bars.

To make the most of autumn sunshine, stroll a mile and a half along the Corso Italia to Boccadasse, a former fishing village with a small beach. It has a huge park and elegant villas that now house modern art galleries. 

This is certainly a city you wouldn't regret visiting and if your budget stretches stay a little longer and enjoy the gorgeous palaces in the area.